Champagne and Co.
An International Blast
By Mireille Sauvé for Flavours Magazine – December
2005
Back in the early eighteenth century, walking through a Champagne
cellar without an iron mask on one’s face was akin to, in
today’s terms, running across a football stadium without one’s
pants on – pure insanity. Sparkling winemaking back then was
a very inexact science and the biggest problem producers had was
that the bottles kept bursting from all the pressure inside.
Folklore credits a blind monk for the ‘invention’ of
the sparkling wine which we know today as ‘Champagne’.
That monk, in actual fact, devoted his entire adult life to keeping
the pesky bubbles out of the wine as he worked in a local abbey
as Cellarmaster and it was his goal to craft fine wines... without
bubbles. Thankfully, he failed and region’s industry responded
by getting stronger bottles for the wine to prevent them from bursting.
That monk has gone down in gastronomic history. He is the infamous
Dom Pérignon.
While a bottle of “Dom” sells in the area of $200.00
a bottle in Canada’s liquor stores, rest assured that you
don’t have to be flush with cash to enjoy a fine bottle of
bubbly these days.
Of course, to be authentic “Champagne”, a wine must
be made in the region of Champagne, France and produced exclusively
from Champenoise grapes. That said, there is a myriad sparkling
wine made all over the world using the very same technique that
makes real Champagne and I am here to tell you all about these effervescent
alternates.
More than a hundred years after Champagne’s famous sparkling
wine was established; the Penedès region in north-eastern
Spain borrowed a page from its neighbour’s book, creating
a wine called Cava. Crisp and dry, this Spanish bubbly is often
referred to in the wine world as Champagne’s “Little
Brother”. It is made using the respected ‘Méthode
Champenoise’ with a similar (though some say less polished)
outcome than its more established older sibling.
Similar stories hail in great numbers from France’s neighbouring
countries of Italy, Germany, Austria and more. But the bubbles don’t
stop in Europe!
Savvy winemakers across the globe jumped on board with this effervescent
extravaganza, crafting sparkling wines across the continents, from
dry to sweet ranging through sorts of qualities and styles. Canada,
Australia, South Africa and the United States are but a few of the
New World wine regions to have crafted sparkling wines which emulate
the shimmering success that was first discovered by Monsieur Pérignon
back in his day.
From the Italian hills of Asti to the Australian flats of Yalumba
almost every region on this earth produces some form of sparkling
wine, and they each write the labels in their own language. These
labels can be confusing on so many levels. Sometimes labelled, ‘Vin
Mousseux’, ‘Crémant’ or even ‘Frizzante’,
all of these terms indicate that the wine inside is – in plain
English – bubbly. It’s a good thing the bottles have
those big corks in them or we might never notice the fizzies from
the flats.
The key thing to watch for on sparkling wine labels is the terminology
that relates to the dryness of the wine. After all, it would be
quite a shock when expecting that one is about to indulge in a crisp,
dry bottle of Champagne to pop open the cork and taste that it’s
sweet. So, in general, ‘Brut Nature’ or ‘Brut’
means the wine will taste bone dry while ‘Extra Dry’
means a wine will taste slightly sweet. Adding more confusion to
the mix, ‘Sec’ on the label (which literally translates
to mean “dry”) means that the wine is in fact quite
sweet, while ‘Demi-Sec’ (translating to “half-dry”)
is really very sweet indeed.
If you’ve got a palate for the sweeter bubblies then you’re
in luck. There are a lot of bottles out there for you – German
Sekt, French Demi-Sec and Italian Spumanti to name a few. Ranging
vastly in quality, it’s best to approach these wines bearing
in mind that you’re popping the cork to have fun, not to discriminate.
So plan your party – this is the season to celebrate! And
when all your wine shopping is done, chill a bottle, pop the cork,
and then raise a toast to the blasted failure of our old friend
Dom, without which we would all be drinking flat wine today.
Champagne’s Carbonated Counterparts
Champagne is not the only bubble on the block. If you’re looking
to explore a few other sparkling wines of note, here are a few international
gems that are positively bursting with flavour…
Graham Beck Brut $17 – $25
One of South Africa`s most acclaimed wineries presents this dry
sparkling wine, produced in the same method as classic French Champagne.
An equal blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this wine exhibits
subtle yeasty characteristics with a fine mousse and hints of honeydew
melon. Enjoy with seared snapper or proscuitto wrapped melon.
Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut $22 – $25
Dry and crisp, this classically produced white sparkling wine hails
from British Columbia`s renowned Okanagan Valley. With slightly
toasted flavours reminiscent of a well-aged Champagne, this wine
would pair well with a half dozen freshly shucked oysters at the
start of a meal or a rich chocolate mousse at the end.
Mionetto Il Prosecco $14 – $18
This classic Italian sparkling wine is made using the ‘Charmat’
production method rather that the traditional ‘Méthode
Champenoise’, thus exhibiting the fresh fruit characteristics
for which Prosecco has become known. Featuring crisp flavours of
green apple and citrus zest, this is a simple bubble that would
be a wonderful accompaniment to a nice Sunday brunch.
Banrock Station Sparkling Shiraz $13 – $17
Red, sweet and sparkling – what a delicious combination. Hailing
from Australia’s sunny Riverland wine region, this Shiraz
was made bubbly using the ‘Charmat Method’ as opposed
to the traditional Champagne technique. As a result, emphasis is
placed on the juicy sweetness of the wine with its rich red cherry
flavours. Delicious when served ice cold as an aperitif or with
cherry pie à-la-mode.
Martini & Rossi Asti Spumante $13 – $15
If there is a beverage in this world that is better suited to a
bowl of fresh strawberries with whipped cream then I have yet to
discover what it is. Made from Italy’s Moscato grapes using
a modern technique which emphasises freshness, this wine delivers
more than its share of lively bubbles. A delicious sweet treat at
the end of a festive meal.
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