Sizzling Summer Wines
Five Top Picks to Accompany Your Grill
By Mireille Sauvé for Flavours Magazine – June 2005

Barbecues are the essence of what it means to be summer – grill smoke wafting through the neighbourhood, good friends and family playing Frisbee on the lawn, six different versions of potato salad on the table and a cool glass of pinot gris in my hand. Ah, that’s summer alright, and there’s just no other season that quite embraces the barbecue the way summer does.

Now, say the word “barbecue” and you’ll conjure up a different image for every person you ask.

Americans, for instance, will tend to think of a southern-style barbecue which involves the “indirect method” (that’s barbecue lingo for slow cooking over a bed of hot coals). This method is most appropriate for cooking large cuts of tough meat as the slow reflective process tenderizes the meat over a span of up to 12 hours.

Australians are a little more rustic about their pit-parties, preferring to call them “barbies”. They will cook anything that was once alive, grilling it fast over an open flame. The Aussies also follow a general rule that their barbies must be held as close to the beach as is humanly possible, and that partakers must consume copious amounts of Australian beer.

On the home front of the barbecue discussion, most Canadians will choose the “direct method” (more BBQ-speak) of throwing slabs of marinated meat, vegetables or whatever else they can dream up over a hot, fired-up grill for no longer than 15 minutes. Now that’s my kind of ‘cue: quick and simple as any summer frolic should be, with an emphasis on F-U-N.

A barbecue is something different depending on where you are and who you’re with, but the underlying constant to these warm-weather events, regardless of who you talk to anywhere in the world, is that they’re all about bringing together friendly folks for a good round of summer fun. So whether it’s a Memphis mood that you are looking to create or a Canadian backyard bash, here’s the scoop on the wines that will make your barbecue sizzle!

As a certified wine professional, a question I often get asked on the topic of barbecues is: “What goes with steak?” This always begs another question from me: “What comes before steak?” As I understand it, a barbecue is a social event, possibly the ultimate social event in fact, as the whole custom is build around hanging out in the yard while catching up with your pals. Be it beef brisket or veggie kebabs, it always takes time for food to cook, so before we even start thinking about what wines go with food, I’d like to look at what wines go with conversation.

First off, fresh air should go with fresh wine, so picture yourself strolling around the lawn with a glass of cool crisp white wine with a bit of bubble to it. Looks good doesn’t it? Italian Prosecco and Spanish Cava are a couple examples of light refreshing sparkling wines suitable to kick-start such an occasion. Sometimes called “poor-man’s Champagne”, these charming little bubblies often show great finesse and they taste just as good out of a Dixie cup as they do out of cut crystal.

Which brings me to my next point: price. How much should you spend on a bottle of barbecue wine? My general rule of thumb is to spend about as much on the wine as you would on the meal. Grilling burgers and chomping on potato wedges? Get yourself a bottle of ten-buck-chuck. Fancy a little filet on the framework? Splurge for a $40.00 bottle. One thing for sure is that there is rarely a place for crystal glasses on a back yard patio table so keep this in mind when considering a super-premium bottle of wine. My advice would be to save that one for an indoor experience when it can be appreciated for the icon that it is.

On the topic of the pairing wine with food, let’s get one thing straight: When it comes to food, barbecues aren’t all about meat. That’s right, vegetarians – this column is for you too. Every barbecue I’ve ever been to has had a number of side dishes to accompany the meats, ranging in style from chips to tabbouleh. Since this supporting fare tends to be lighter in style, I would recommend staying with fresher whites to pair with these dishes. Australian viognier and British Columbian pinot blanc would both be good bets.

Also accompanying the meat dishes – sometimes even in place of them – are vegetables cooked right on the grill, running the gamut in shapes, styles and flavours. Whether it’s herbed zucchini slices or onion and mushroom kebabs, chardonnay is a good bet to match with grilled veggies. Look to Ontario and B.C. for some stylish renditions of this always-fashionable grape variety.

Now on to the meat of the matter: let’s get into reds. As I recall the question was: “What goes with steak?” Ah, my mouth waters just thinking about it. Lamb, beef, pork, bison – all popular barbecue guest stars – go wonderfully with red wine. Of course, marinades will determine the flavours to some extent and this will affect which wine will go best with which dish, but you can always count on one basic rule of food and wine matching: The rarer you eat your steak; the drier you should drink your wine.

Now before all you Pit Masters rush outside to fire up the grill, take a quick look at the following five “Barbecue Reds” that might just make your meal:

La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux $12 - $14
This is one of my bank account’s favourites. Consistently offering good value, this red blend from the south of France showcases flavours of red jammy fruits and light tannins. This is an ideal barbecue wine, as there is no temptation to cellar the bottle, but rather to drink it all right away. A suitable companion to grilled pork or chicken, this medium-bodied wine is truly a bang for your buck.

Roodeberg K.W.V. $13 - $15
Rich, robust and full-bodied, this wine helped to put South Africa back on the map in Canadian liquor stores. The name translates to mean ‘Red Mountain’, inspired by the sunsets in the Cape Mountains. Rich and robust with plenty of upfront fruit, this Cabernet Sauvignon based blend will pair especially well with stronger meats such as lamb, bison and venison.

Mission Hill Five Vineyards Pinot Noir $14 - $15
This is a craft wine that hails from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. Light and fragrant, this pinot noir exhibits charming fresh aromas of red cherry and fresh herbs. The flavour combines red berry fruit with earthy characteristics, making this wine a lovely companion to grilled tuna, salmon or grilled vegetables sprinkled with feta cheese.

Angus the Bull Cabernet Sauvignon $20 - $22
How could anyone even think of a steak without thinking of Angus the Bull Cabernet Sauvignon? This wine was crafted specifically as an accompaniment to medium-rare prime steaks, hailing from Australia where wine is more than a casual hobby for most. The wine’s concentration of black fruits mixed with its firm tannins and oak make it a real stand-out at the price point.

E & J Gallo Frei Ranch Zinfandel $34 - $41
Single-vineyard wines are much more focused than your average wine in the concentration of fruit that they portray, and this Sonoma Valley bottle is no exception to the rule. Featuring soft ripe tannins and rich full-bodied fruit, this wine is an ideal accompaniment to such barbecue delights as lamb, bison, or gourmet burgers.

 

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