Viva il Vino Italiano
…and viva the food that goes with it!
By Mireille Sauvé for Flavours Magazine – September 2006

The word ‘Pasta’ offers a veritable mouthful of culinary possibilities, from Agnolotti to Spaghettini with about a million shapes in between, and Pasta is but one small part of the world of Italian cuisine.

With the options pouring out of Italian kitchens in such plenty, one might be intimidated by the thought of meeting these gastronomic benchmarks with wine options. For anyone who has experienced these fears in the past, let there be celebration for there is good news to be had – Italian food goes wonderfully with Italian wine!

Let’s start with the classic – Spaghetti and Meatballs. Flavours in this dish include ground beef, oily onions, green peppers, starchy pasta and of course tomatoes. Now, no discussion on food and wine pairing would be complete without a side note on tomatoes. They say (‘they’ being wine experts worldwide) that one should never drink red wine with tomatoes. No sir, you see, this would be an abomination to the palate because tomatoes contain a little-known flavour called ‘umami’ and red wine contains tannins (which adversely react with umami when combined to taste a bit like a piece of tinfoil) . As such, a cardinal rule in food and wine pairing is this: No red wine with tomatoes. But some rules are just made to be broken and the Italians have the inside scoop on this, for as long as pasta has been served in ceramic dishes, Italian diners have been drinking Chianti with Spaghetti and Meatballs. And I dare say they’ve been enjoying it too.

Another fine Italian specialty is Bruscetta. Generally speaking, these are little pieces of toast topped with fresh herbs, anchovies and of course tomatoes. In this case the cardinal rule holds true – a red wine paired with this would likely taste extremely bitter. A good rule of thumb when pairing wines with salty foods such as this one (which are also high in umami) is to look for lighter styled fruity white wines. Suggested wines to compliment Bruscetta would be the whites of Northern Italy such as Verdicchio or Pinot Grigio.

An all-time favourite Italian culinary masterpiece is Lamb Osso Bucco, often served alongside a rich stewed orzo mixture. With this Posturepedic-style comfort food I recommend some of the bigger guns in the Italian armoury such as Barolo, Barbaresco or Brunello di Montalcino. These wines have strong structured tannins that will stand up to the richness of the dish and the red fruit flavours in the wines will be a beautiful compliment to the taste of the lamb itself.

One could scarcely say that they have fully considered the wines and foods of Italy without discussing one of the foods that this country does best and that is cheese. Some of the world’s most impressive cheeses hail from Italy – Mozzarella, Asiago and Gorgonzola just to name a few. Each cheese has a unique flavour profile which makes the ideal wine companions different for every cheese. Mozzarella, for example is a very versatile cheese with a mild flavour that could easily be overwhelmed by a strong flavoured wine. The ideal wine pairing for this then would be something along the lines of a Soave or an Arneis – both subtly flavoured white wines with a touch of acidity to stand up to the creaminess of the cheese. Asiago is a firm and salty cheese, making it an excellent match with a dry sparkling white wine such as Prosecco from the Fruili region in north east Italy. Gorgonzola has a completely unique character, featuring nutty flavours characteristic of blue cheese with a rich and creamy base. The classic pairing for this type of cheese is a strong red wine with some perceivable sweetness, something along the lines of an Amarone which offers robust dried fruit flavours with fairly high alcohol.

From Asti Spumanti to Zenato Amarone, the Italian world of wine offers literally thousands of lovely libations that are sure to match their culinary kin. As with all wine selections, the element of utmost importance is personal preference, so eat good food and drink what you like with it. You really can’t go wrong with that.

Top Italian Wine Picks
Here are five classic wines from Italy and the foods that show them off…

Mionetto Il Prosecco IGT $14 – $18
This sparkling white wine is made exclusively from Prosecco grapes grown in the Valdobbiadene hills of Veneto, Italy. Dry and crisp, it features flavours of ripe juicy peaches with a lemony acidity. Sealed with a ‘crown cap’ similar to beer bottle closures, this lively bubble would pair well with salty preparations white fish such as fried sardines or an Asiago cheese plate.

Feudo Arancio Grillo $13 – $14
From the ever-growing wine region of Sicily, Italy, this dry white wine is light bodied in style with wonderfully integrated citrus flavours throughout. Fresh Granny Smith apples and clove spice are some of the aromas present in the wine making it a wonderful before-dinner sipper or a great pairing with oven-roasted cod or halibut.

Melini Chianti $11 – $12
A maker of Chianti for more thank three centuries, Melini is one of the landmarks in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico region. Made primarily from Sangiovese grapes, this light red wine features red cherry flavours and a lively acidity. A perfect pairing with Spaghetti Bolognese (spaghetti with meat sauce), this wine would also pair well with a cheesy pepperoni pizza.

Masi Valpolicella Classico Superiore $13 – $16
Masi is one of the most established wine companies in the Veneto area where this dry red wine is made. Valpolicella is made from a combination of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella grapes, resulting in a medium-bodied red wine with structured tannins and rich plummy fruit. Enjoy with Pork or Veal Scaloppini with Orzo.

Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $53 – $57
Known as the Grandfather of red wines, Amarone employs a unique process in making the wine, drying the grapes slightly before pressing which results in a concentrated fruit flavour. This is a full-bodied wine offering rich flavours of chocolate, black liquorice and dried raisins. A delightful wine to sip and contemplate, this would be a perfect accompaniment to a cheese plate featuring strong cheeses and dried figs.

 

return to article archives