Naramata Bench Overlooking the southernmost part of the Okanagan Lake on the east bank lies an oasis of vineyards that some wine professionals predict are the future of Canadian wines. British Columbia’s Naramata Bench spans about ten-kilometres and is home to 12 boutique wineries which are drawing the attention of wine appreciators worldwide. Starting at the lake’s shore and stretching up to the base of the mountains some five kilometres inland, vineyards on this plateau collect a higher-than-average amount of sunlight, and produce better-than-average wines as a result. My appreciation of the Naramata Bench started when I was four years old. It’s not what you think – my parents weren’t following me around with a wineglass forcing me to drink. Quite the contrary in fact, as my early involvement with Naramata was as a church-going preschooler whose family holidays were spent at the spiritual retreat in the centre of town: Naramata Centre. I have such fond memories of this area that, when it came time to assign a wine touring piece on the Naramata Bench, the decision was easy – I assigned this one to myself. Now, back when I was in pigtails, a couple of things were very different in those parts: Firstly, it used to be called “Naramata”, plain and simple, but every time I slipped into my old habit of calling it that during my visit, a member of the modern community would delicately but firmly point out that the new (and improved, by marketing standards) name of the winemaking area is “Naramata Bench” – a title which describes the flat piece of land upon which world renowned wines are now produced. The other major difference is that, when I was a kid, the Okanagan was known for its orchards, not its vineyards. In fact, the first vinifera (European cultivated grape variety) vineyard on the Naramata bench didn’t come along until 1980 when Guenther and Kristina Lang planted riesling and marechal foch in what is now their estate vineyard. The trend took off and it wasn’t long before there were a dozen estate wineries taking full advantage of the excellent soil conditions and macro-climate that the Naramata Bench offers. My tour started at Lake Breeze Vineyards situated right in the middle of “The Bench”, where I met with the winery’s managing partner, Gary Reynolds. One of the great things about visiting this winery is Mahdina’s Patio – an outdoor terrace overlooking the lake, perfectly poised for a delectable lunch. This restaurant is completely unique in that not a stitch of it is indoors – not even the kitchen! Gary and I sat down to dine in the cool fresh air as the story of the Naramata Bench was told to me through the eyes of a budding entrepreneur. Wines tasted included the 2003 Gewurztraminer (crisp and spicy – great with stir-fries), 2002 Seven Poplars Merlot (fruitful and balanced with great ageing potential) and my personal predilection – the 2003 Pinot Blanc (simple and dry featuring true Okanagan orchard aromas). Pleasantly saturated by a lovely Mediterranean lunch, I drove up the road some two and a half kilometres to Nichol Vineyard, where Kathleen Nichol greeted me in their modest, farm-like tasting room. I had really been looking forward to trying their wines, as I’d had them in the past and been remarkably impressed. So though had many as it turned out, as there were but three wines left in the cellar – all the rest had been sold out by the time I arrived, as new vintages are released in the spring around these parts, and I didn’t pull up with my wine glass until fall. I was very fortunate however that one of the remaining wines was the Nichol Vineyard 2000 Syrah – a variety for which this winery has become known, as this wine comes from the oldest syrah vines in Canada. Its French roots shone through as the wine’s bold palate carried earth and dark ripe fruit – it was delicious. So I bought a bottle and went on my merry way. Next stop: Hillside Estate Winery. Now, I must admit that I was sceptical about tasting the wines of Hillside for two reasons: First, the wines really weren’t all that great when the winery started up back in ’94 and second, the packaging is just so marketing-savvy that one could hardly expect that the wine inside would live up to the label. It’s not just the bottle that’s well presented at Hillside – the winery’s white pine tower shoots up right in the centre of the Naramata Bench as a castle erects on a hillside (hence, the name). My scepticism about the wines was soon washed away – first with the 2003 Reserve Pinot Gris (full-bodied, fresh and peachy), then with the 2003 Reserve Gamay (strikingly similar to a well-structured Pinot Noir), and most impressively the winery’s red blend: 2002 Mosaic (complex with robust plummy fruit and vanilla overtones). When it comes to my original concerns about whether I would like these wines or not, Hillside’s new commitment to quality made me eat – or should I say drink – my words. I got a bit sidetracked from my next appointment, as I felt an overwhelming urge to pop in to one of Canada’s most craft wineries: Poplar Grove. Upon entering this modest tasting room I was greeted by a smiling hostess offering a selection of cheeses to sample. Proprietors Ian and Gitta Sutherland are Canada’s first and only purveyors of food and wine so I’d recommend taking advantage of the opportunity to sample some of the best of the valley here. Their tiny production meant that they were completely sold out of wine at the time of my visit, but I was fortunate to get to try the 2002 New Block Merlot – rich and robust with plenty of fruit and spice. This is one winery that you truly have to line up for, so be ready in May for the new releases, and bring your chequebook because you’ll want to stock up. With every intention of sticking to schedule, I once again was pulled away by an irresistable attraction to the tasting room at the winery across the road from Poplar grove – La Frenz. “Just a quick peek inside,” I assured myself, but before you knew it I was chatting with Winemaker Jeff Martin, sipping on a late harvest Muscat which he had just drawn from a solera system (a complex barrel stacking system used in Spain to make sherry). Jeff, an Aussie, used to be Winemaker at the renowned Quails’ Gate Estate Winery further north in the Okanagan, and he has honed his talents well. Most impressive at La Frenz were the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (rich cassis with a vanilla backdrop) and the 2002 Montage (a red blend with dark cherry flavours and lots of spice – perfect for cellaring). Fortunately, none of the wineries in this area are more than a stone’s throw away from one another so I wasn’t running too far behind. I was back on track and on my way to meet with Co-Proprietor Prudence Maher at Red Rooster Winery – the Bench’s flagship venue, as it were. Red Rooster is divided into two equally large buildings – one for making the wine and the other for receiving guests. I have heard that wine is the ultimate balance between science and art but never have I seen the artisan side of wine epitomized the way this winery does. The tasting room is chock full of activity, featuring anything and everything to do with wine, and if you head upstairs you’ll find yourself amidst beautiful works of art produced by local artists, all displayed in a charming gallery setting. The wines produced here range from a 2003 Gewurztraminer (spicy and aromatic with a dry finish) to a 2003 Marechal Foch (rich and smooth with good concentration of fruit), and guests are invited to try them all. No visit to Naramata would be complete without a stop in to this inspired cellar door facility. My day was done, but my journey was far from over, so after a good night’s rest I was back on the trail – Naramata Road, to be precise. Nine o’clock the next morning saw me at the door of Lang Vineyards tasting room (which opens at 10:00, should you happen to be an early bird). I met with Guenther Lang, the winery’s co-founder, who told me an inspiring story about a most unusual wine: maple wine, made with real Canadian maple syrup. Never having heard of such an elixir, I listened intently as Guenther explained that his inspiration to create this unique product was none other than B.C.’s Japanese tourists. As it turns out, they just can’t get enough of the stuff to bring home to Japan. I tasted the “Original Canadian Maple Wine” red and white (both sweet dessert wines available in 375 ml bottles) and the “Canadian Maple Brut N/V” (which knocked my socks off – honestly, it tasted a lot like Champagne). The Bench’s most established wine settler, Lang produces several white and red table wines, but best known for their sparkling wines which offer exceptional value. My last winery visit on the Naramata Bench was to Kettle Valley Winery – a winery founded in 1992 by two families of what are known to the industry as ‘Pinot-philes’ – people who just can’t get enough pinot noir. Raving enthusiasts of France’s Burgundy wines, it should be no surprise that they have become known for their pinot noir, which offers encouraging insight to the future of B.C. reds. I also sampled their 2002 Adra Station Chardonnay (full-bodied with tropical fruit and great balance) during my visit, as well as the 2003 Gamay (very reminiscent of a young red Burgundy). While I don’t doubt that this talented team would fit in well with the old-world crowd in France, I for one think that this local wine community benefits tenfold from their presence. While chatting with each of the wineries’ winemakers, founders and principals, I had to take advantage of the opportunity to ask them a few questions about the Naramata Bench. “If you could only plant one grape varietal in your vineyard, which one would it be?” I asked. Responses ranged from pinot gris to syrah with everything in between. The wines produced in this area are so wonderfully diverse, as if to suggest that the soil here is near magic. “That’s a bad question,” I was told by Ken Lauzon, managing partner of Hillside Estate Winery and spokesperson for the Naramata Bench Wineries Association, “because the best thing about the Naramata Bench is that everything seems to grow so well here.” “What’s so great about the Naramata Bench?” was my next query. They all agreed: A cluster of wineries lined up all in a neat little row, offering the valley’s most intricately crafted wines while it overlooks majestic scenery. What could be better than that? It’s like a teensy-weensy Canadian version of Napa… on the lake. If You Go… You can count on most of the wineries’ tasting rooms being open from May to October, 11:00 am to 5:00 pm daily. You may want to schedule your visit to coincide with the 2005 Okanagan Spring Wine Festival which runs from May 5th to 8th and usually marks the release of new wines in participating tasting rooms. How to get there: Where to stay: Where to eat: Visit these websites for more information on visiting the Naramata
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