Viva il Vino Italiano
…and viva the food that goes with it!
By Mireille Sauvé for Flavours Magazine – September
2006
The word ‘Pasta’ offers a veritable mouthful of culinary
possibilities, from Agnolotti to Spaghettini with about a million
shapes in between, and Pasta is but one small part of the world
of Italian cuisine.
With the options pouring out of Italian kitchens in such plenty,
one might be intimidated by the thought of meeting these gastronomic
benchmarks with wine options. For anyone who has experienced these
fears in the past, let there be celebration for there is good news
to be had – Italian food goes wonderfully with Italian wine!
Let’s start with the classic – Spaghetti and Meatballs.
Flavours in this dish include ground beef, oily onions, green peppers,
starchy pasta and of course tomatoes. Now, no discussion on food
and wine pairing would be complete without a side note on tomatoes.
They say (‘they’ being wine experts worldwide) that
one should never drink red wine with tomatoes. No sir, you see,
this would be an abomination to the palate because tomatoes contain
a little-known flavour called ‘umami’ and red wine contains
tannins (which adversely react with umami when combined to taste
a bit like a piece of tinfoil) . As such, a cardinal rule in food
and wine pairing is this: No red wine with tomatoes. But some rules
are just made to be broken and the Italians have the inside scoop
on this, for as long as pasta has been served in ceramic dishes,
Italian diners have been drinking Chianti with Spaghetti and Meatballs.
And I dare say they’ve been enjoying it too.
Another fine Italian specialty is Bruscetta. Generally speaking,
these are little pieces of toast topped with fresh herbs, anchovies
and of course tomatoes. In this case the cardinal rule holds true
– a red wine paired with this would likely taste extremely
bitter. A good rule of thumb when pairing wines with salty foods
such as this one (which are also high in umami) is to look for lighter
styled fruity white wines. Suggested wines to compliment Bruscetta
would be the whites of Northern Italy such as Verdicchio or Pinot
Grigio.
An all-time favourite Italian culinary masterpiece is Lamb Osso
Bucco, often served alongside a rich stewed orzo mixture. With this
Posturepedic-style comfort food I recommend some of the bigger guns
in the Italian armoury such as Barolo, Barbaresco or Brunello di
Montalcino. These wines have strong structured tannins that will
stand up to the richness of the dish and the red fruit flavours
in the wines will be a beautiful compliment to the taste of the
lamb itself.
One could scarcely say that they have fully considered the wines
and foods of Italy without discussing one of the foods that this
country does best and that is cheese. Some of the world’s
most impressive cheeses hail from Italy – Mozzarella, Asiago
and Gorgonzola just to name a few. Each cheese has a unique flavour
profile which makes the ideal wine companions different for every
cheese. Mozzarella, for example is a very versatile cheese with
a mild flavour that could easily be overwhelmed by a strong flavoured
wine. The ideal wine pairing for this then would be something along
the lines of a Soave or an Arneis – both subtly flavoured
white wines with a touch of acidity to stand up to the creaminess
of the cheese. Asiago is a firm and salty cheese, making it an excellent
match with a dry sparkling white wine such as Prosecco from the
Fruili region in north east Italy. Gorgonzola has a completely unique
character, featuring nutty flavours characteristic of blue cheese
with a rich and creamy base. The classic pairing for this type of
cheese is a strong red wine with some perceivable sweetness, something
along the lines of an Amarone which offers robust dried fruit flavours
with fairly high alcohol.
From Asti Spumanti to Zenato Amarone, the Italian world of wine
offers literally thousands of lovely libations that are sure to
match their culinary kin. As with all wine selections, the element
of utmost importance is personal preference, so eat good food and
drink what you like with it. You really can’t go wrong with
that.
Top Italian Wine Picks
Here are five classic wines from Italy and the foods that show them
off…
Mionetto Il Prosecco IGT $14 – $18
This sparkling white wine is made exclusively from Prosecco grapes
grown in the Valdobbiadene hills of Veneto, Italy. Dry and crisp,
it features flavours of ripe juicy peaches with a lemony acidity.
Sealed with a ‘crown cap’ similar to beer bottle closures,
this lively bubble would pair well with salty preparations white
fish such as fried sardines or an Asiago cheese plate.
Feudo Arancio Grillo $13 – $14
From the ever-growing wine region of Sicily, Italy, this dry white
wine is light bodied in style with wonderfully integrated citrus
flavours throughout. Fresh Granny Smith apples and clove spice are
some of the aromas present in the wine making it a wonderful before-dinner
sipper or a great pairing with oven-roasted cod or halibut.
Melini Chianti $11 – $12
A maker of Chianti for more thank three centuries, Melini is one
of the landmarks in Tuscany’s Chianti Classico region. Made
primarily from Sangiovese grapes, this light red wine features red
cherry flavours and a lively acidity. A perfect pairing with Spaghetti
Bolognese (spaghetti with meat sauce), this wine would also pair
well with a cheesy pepperoni pizza.
Masi Valpolicella Classico Superiore $13 – $16
Masi is one of the most established wine companies in the Veneto
area where this dry red wine is made. Valpolicella is made from
a combination of Corvina, Molinara and Rondinella grapes, resulting
in a medium-bodied red wine with structured tannins and rich plummy
fruit. Enjoy with Pork or Veal Scaloppini with Orzo.
Tommasi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico $53 –
$57
Known as the Grandfather of red wines, Amarone employs a unique
process in making the wine, drying the grapes slightly before pressing
which results in a concentrated fruit flavour. This is a full-bodied
wine offering rich flavours of chocolate, black liquorice and dried
raisins. A delightful wine to sip and contemplate, this would be
a perfect accompaniment to a cheese plate featuring strong cheeses
and dried figs.
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